a great feeling
By Liam K
Published 28 July 2015
The waves are crashing
Along the beach and cold crystal sand
Is upon my feet.
I walk to the ocean,
Amazed and in awe at just
How loud the ocean can raw.
I untie my leg rope, ready to go out.
I'm gonna have a great surf
Without a doubt.
My heart is pounding
In my chest
As I see the ocean rest.
I take my chance and paddle out,
Duck-diving waves
Til I get out the back.
I sit up on my board,
As I see as set wave
Coming at me with a mean ugly face.
I paddle for the wave,
Quickly popping up
Getting a great feeling that I'm in luck.